Ears, Rinds, and Tails

Some 10 years ago, after a long and arduous day of tasting in the vineyards of Beaujolais country, having returned to Lyons late in the evening, a hungry handful of our group left the others to their beds and unearthed a bistro called La Queue de Cochon. I have never returned, self-inflicted duty having led me, on subsequent trips, to new experiences among the array of celebrated restaurants in the star-studded Lyonnaise region. But neither have I ever so enjoyed a meal in that region—if it