Preserved Goose

Foie gras, itself, remains, even in the regions of its production, a luxury product, gracing the tables only on very special occasions. It enjoys, there, a quality of reverence shared, perhaps, only by the truffle. (I once listened in amazement to a Périgord farmwife describing—in what was intended to be a vehement denial that the raising of geese destined to produce foie gras involves cruelty to animals—the tenderness and gentleness with which the birds are treated and, with mounting enthu