• 48 mussels, approx. 1.6–1.8 kg

Provençale Butter

• 2 large cloves garlic
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 85 g soft butter
• fresh, white breadcrumbs

Check that all the mussels are closed. If any are open, tap the mussel on the worktop; if it does not close within a few seconds, discard. (The rule with shellfish is always, ‘If in doubt, throw it out’.) Scrape off any barnacles from the mussel shells. Wash the mussels well in several changes of cold water. Then spread them in a single layer in a pan, cover with a folded tea-towel or a lid and cook over a gentle heat. This usually takes 2–3 minutes; the mussels are cooked just as soon as the shells open. Remove them from the pan immediately or they will shrink in size and become tough.

Remove the beard. Discard one shell and loosen the mussel but leave it in the other shell. Allow to get quite cold.

Meanwhile make the Provençale butter. Peel and crush the garlic and pound it in a mortar with the parsley and olive oil. Gradually beat in the butter (this may be done either in a bowl or a food processor). Spread the garlic butter over the mussels in the shells and dip each one into the soft, white breadcrumbs. They may be prepared ahead to this point and frozen in a covered box lined with clingfilm or tinfoil.

Arrange in individual serving dishes. Brown under the grill and serve with crusty white bread to mop up garlicky juices.