Frith Street focaccia

I’m very proud of the bread we serve at my restaurant in Soho. The brown is from the Neal’s Yard Bakery and represents the very best of the hippie baking tradition – what was described in Educating Rita as pebble-dashed bread. The white has been a thornier problem. Soho formerly possessed two good bakeries, both long gone, so the basically sound idea of buying good locally produced bread, as with the brown, went out the window. My former co-chef