My first and only job as a chef in a large restaurant was in 1981 at L’Escargot in Greek Street. With several dining rooms, some of them private, we did a lot of parties, including Andrew Lloyd-Webber’s wedding (which one, I don’t remember), so a lot of nibbles were called for. The favourite was this Niçoise version of pizza, the anchovies and onions combining well with the rather exceptional Californian wines available uniquely there at that time. We made the dish with a p