‘This is not an easy pudding to make, nor is it a cheap one; however, for chocolate addicts it must represent at least step four on their stairway to heaven. Simon Hopkinson told me that this cake should never come off the menu: easy for him to say, he wasn’t trying to cook it every day. After a ten-year run in the West End to rave notices, the curtain finally came down on this old trouper when I ran out of