Mountain Trout with Bacon and Scallions

Bacon frying is almost always irresistible. In a mountain forest, by a limpid stream, at sunset, over an open fire, it beckons more seductively than Circe. When coupled with the reward of an honest fisherman—fresh trout fried till crisp, ash-roasted baby potatoes, and, in the spring, perhaps a handful of freshly chopped ramps tossed into the sputtering fat—it creates my idea of a great meal: strong, fresh flavors in equal combat, food that sustains, not just entertains. This recipe for trou