Calvin Trillin in his chronicles of culinary America has done as much to champion cholesterol as Nathan Pritikin with his famous diet has to combat it. The two, metaphorically, came head-to-head when Trillin traveled to Natchitoches, Louisiana, to report on an attempt to switch the dietary allegiances of the populace to the stark Pritikin regime as part of a medical study. The result was a foregone conclusion
