Wilted Salads

Throughout the hill and mountain regions of the South, wilted salad is a favorite. It was an ingenious solution to the general lack of vegetable or olive oil in the region (in and around Charleston the African-introduced benne or sesame seed was pressed, but the use of the oil was never widespread). The bacon fat used as the base of the dressing must be hot since it congeals at room temperature. It delightfully wilts—but does not cook—the fresh, raw lettuce. Traditionally, southerners often