Tomato Aspic

The charm of some of our best dishes in the South is lost in repetition or forgotten in a search for novelty. A few years ago in France, after eating meal after meal with the then ubiquitous vegetable terrine course, I found myself longing for the simple and direct pleasure of the tomato aspics of the South. American cooks often disregard these aspics, preferring such foreign dishes as gazpacho, but a fresh tomato aspic is just such a chunky garden set up by gelatin. In the winter, an aspic