Rice puddings, despite their devotees, are generally considered plebeian dishes—family delights, perhaps, but not company fare. This version is the exception, haute French in its beautiful caramel coating and flashy with its unexpected bits of exotic glacéed fruits. It expresses well the year-round carnival atmosphere of the two most colorful southern ports, Mobile and New Orleans. Serve it slightly warmer than room temperature, cut into wedges, with whipped cream. One of the two fruit sauces could also accompany it (see recipes). In New Orleans this elegant dessert would be known according to its French name shown above. You may wish to appropriate this appellation to keep your guests in suspense. They will not be disappointed to see this rice pudding.