Sizzling Garlic Shrimp

There is a century-old tapas bar in Madrid called La Casa del Abuelo, a dim, minuscule place that serves sickly sweet jug wine and little else besides shrimp a la plancha and the house specialty—garlic shrimp. Sizzled slowly and patiently in small earthenware cazuelas while customers watch, the garlic shrimp offer a textbook example of how this classic tapa should taste. The Atlantic shrimp are ultrafresh and small, as they should be, and simmered so gently in olive oil that t