Black-and-White Calamari Fritters

Of the delicious multitude of seafood fritters I tasted in Spain, these stand out as the most dramatic and memorable—the sort of dish that instantly provokes gasps of excitement. For one, the beer batter is so light that tempura seems leaden in comparison. But the real surprise here is the colors: a batter hued jet-black by squid ink, with snow-white calamares hiding inside. This is one of many scandalously delicious creations of Quim Marquéz, a Barcelona chef who can work miracles w