Ladies and gentlemen, here is one of Spain’s most definitive tapas. Bravas—fierce—refers to the spicy tomato sauce, for which there are as many recipes as there are tapas bar owners. My version was inspired by the smooth, smoky, pimentón-tinged sauce at Las Bravas, a bar that’s been doing a booming patatas bravas business in Madrid for over a century. In the Catalan manner, I drizzle my bravas with both the tomato sauce and garlicky allioli mayonnaise, which makes the dish insanely delicious. At good bars, the cubed potatoes are deep-fried twice, first in coolish oil and then in very hot oil to crisp them. I present an easier option, using small red potatoes that are parboiled, cut into quarters, and crisped in the oven. Serve them skewered on toothpicks.
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