Roasted Squash Soup with Saffron Ice Cream

The Roig Robí restaurant in Barcelona has a devoted clientele of intellectuals and artists (one of Spain’s greatest modern artists, Antoni Tàpies, designed its menu). Under the watchful eyes of Mercé Navarro and Inma Crosas, a mother and daughter team who cook like angels, the food, for all its modern touches, remains deeply soulful and utterly Catalan. Their soup is a case in point. A velvety, satisfying pumpkin puree, it comes with an imaginative garnish of saffron ice cream and deep-frie