Clams in Olive Oil with Jamon and Pine Nuts

What timing—the day I finished testing chef Quim Marqués’s exquisite recipe for razor clams with truffle oil, Quim himself arrived in New York from Barcelona for a guest stint at Solera restaurant. On his menu was a dish of clams “poached” in olive oil together with pine nuts and bits of serrano ham. Once again, I was wowed: three simple flavors, each with its own elusively sweet aftertaste, combined in a dish that lingered for days in my memory. When I tr