“Silly,” said my friend Gabriela, as we pored over glossy magazine spreads dedicated to the glitzy wedding of Spain’s crown prince Felipe. “Why did they have to do that dumb roasted capon, for sixteen hundred people? Why didn’t they do something real and truly Spanish, like pollo en pepitoria?” she wondered, referring to the famous dish of chicken (or hen, actually) stewed with a mortar-pounded mixture of fried almonds and garlic and tinted with saffron. In addition
