Fennel-Cockle Velouté with Blue Shrimp Tartare

This soup is a play on hot and cold and was on our opening menu, but the velouté was made from clams instead of cockles—an equally good option. We make use of what we have and what’s best. We pour the velouté tableside over a disc of rouille, which is a traditional condiment for a bouillabaisse or seafood stew, on which a cylinder of toast holds the tartare. I love the bite of blue shrimp, but if you have access to Santa Barbara prawns, those are fabulous too. Just like the soup, though, th