Tartare of Grey Mullet

South and west of Narbonne lies Bages, a pretty fishing village overlooking one of the many blue salt lagoons of Languedoc and a perfect place for lunch. Here, a number of families combine their fishing activities with wine-making, and they supply both their daily catch and their wine to Le Portanel, a comfortable restaurant perched above the water.

As well as eels, which are its signature dish, the restaurant serves bass and grey mullet, trapped in the lagoon in triangular nets cal