Giovanni Pilu likes to add a Sardinian twist to this classic vongole recipe with grated bottarga (air-dried mullet roe). Bottarga has a salty, fishy flavour; you can leave it out or add just a little if you prefer. The trick with such a simple dish lies in the quality of the ingredients, as there’s nothing to disguise inferior produce. Use the best-quality olive oil you can afford and a good Italian wine that
