Filet de Pagre Grillé au Beurre de Pissala (ou Poutargue) et Poulpes d’Olives Noires

Pierre Minguella says the pagre is a ‘bâtard’, halfway between the pageot rouge (Pandora) & the sar. A bastard the pagre may be, but as a member of the highly-prized bream family (the only Mediterranean member available on the Atlantic’s western side), its firm, delicious flesh is superb when baked or, as in this recipe, grilled with salty anchovies. Daurade (gilt-head bream), the pagre’s more illustrious cousin, may be substituted (or any fleshy salt-water fish), with equally fine resu