Hongshao Ruge

Justly famed for their skill in cooking small birds, the Cantonese overcame the problem of there being so many small bones by cutting the birds into bite-sized morsels before serving them. Diners can then easily extract the meat.

In this recipe, the squab are not really roasted. They are quickly cooked in aflavourful liquid, dried, and then, just before serving, dropped into very hot oil to finish the cooking. Their skin becomes crisp, with a lacquered look, while the meat