Feicui Ji Pian

For many centuries in China, wheat gluten has been separate from the starch category and made into imitation meats for vegetarian styles of cooking. The Buddhist influence here is unmistakable. Wheat gluten is a nutritious, high protein food with a texture that lends itself to imaginative uses. It has a delicate flavour of its own but readily absorbs sauces and condiments. I savorer this version in Shanghais Gongdelin restaurant, the mild green chillies imparting the “emerald” touch. One