The Black Pàté of Provence

This famous hors d’oeuvre from the Mediterranean coast is in season throughout the year. (See menu and wine suggestions.) Mademoiselle Ray serves it as a three-colored canapé platter, garnishing the black mound of pàté with concoctions of red—salmon-roe caviar—and green—mashed eggplant. The two principal ingredients of the Tapenado are anchovies and black Morocco olives, and if you can get both of them fresh from Greek or Italian groceries you will