Spitted or Grilled Partridge

The ideal, of course, is to have partridge brought home by the hunter. All across the United States, however, they are now available, at least through the winter months, from fancy game farms and shops. Each cleaned and dressed bird (without the liver which Mademoiselle Ray can use for her partridge dishes) weighs about a pound and provides a single solid serving for a hungry diner. (See discussion of hunting birds in the Alps;