Surprise Packets of Lamb and Tripe as they do it in Marseilles

This is probably the least well known of all French regional specialties—a hearty, “rib-sticking,” peasanty, extremely inexpensive Sunday-night-supper-style one-dish meal—best for cold winter nights. (Menu and wine suggestions.) Mademoiselle Ray served it to parties of young skiers from a huge black iron “witches’ cauldron” hanging from a hook above the log fire in the open hearth. The dish works equally well in an enameled-iron casserole in the oven or i