Grilled Chicken Wings with Hong Kong Spices

The seaside community of Shek O lies on the far side of Hong Kong Island, perhaps a half hour drive from the forest of skyscrapers. But the distance might be better measured in centuries than in kilometers. Here, on this island of relentless urban sprawl and frenzied economic development, you can find a bohemian seaside community with narrow streets, laid-back bars and open-air restaurants, and beaches that are crowded on Sundays with lots of families picnicking.

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