Tuna Steaks, Madeira Style

Readers of my books will know of my love for Portugal and Portuguese cooking. I would venture to say that Portugal is the best-kept culinary secret in Europe—and this includes its outdoor cooking. The following dish comes from Portuguese-owned Madeira, a volcanic island off the coast of Africa, which is famed for its fortified wine, tropical flowers, and vertiginously steep terraced hillsides. I suppose it’s no accident that grilling should be popular in Madeira. The island was once covered