Ideally use raw bones, with or without meat and giblets, excluding the liver. Alternatively, use leftover carcases. You can use bones from fattier types of poultry such as duck but avoid using the skin and any fat.

Break up the bones or carcases and put them in a large pan with chopped onions – unpeeled for a richer-coloured stock – carrots, celery and leeks. Game carcases also make a dark stock. Add a bunch of fresh herbs – rosemary and tarragon are very good in poultry and game stocks – and some whole peppercorns. Pour on water to cover, then bring slowly to the boil, skimming until there is no more scum.

Reduce the heat and continue simmering, covered, for about 3 hours, skimming occasionally, if necessary. Strain and cool, then refrigerate the stock until the fat sets in a solid layer, then degrease (above).