Old-Fashioned Cream Candy

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, pulled taffy was a popular American street food. It was not as creamy white as this recipe because it was often made with molasses, but it was white enough to pass in folk judgment under several suggestive names. In Pennsylvania, the candy was called “bellyguts”; in New York, it was called “cock-a-nee-nee.” Both were considered vulgar, which of course endeared the candies all the more to the children who hawked them—and ate them.

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