Sorrel-Onion Noodle Kugel

They erupted in early spring, their arching dark-green curlicues and hollow stems betraying them among the lawn grasses long before their pungent waft of onion. My sister and I called these wild chives “onion grass,” and we ate shafts and shafts as we foraged outside our New Jersey home for four-leaf clovers and cowering purple and yellow violets.

One day my grandfather pointed out the easily recognized arrow shape of wild sorrel, a lemony green fix to cleanse the mouth of onion and