Without the potato, the Jewish Lithuanian household could not have existed. Mother was in her element with it. It was as if all her creative force bore down on that lowly tuber to transform it into one tempting magical form after another.
DON GUSSOW, CHAIA SONIA
Inspired by the unabashed charms of homey mashed potatoes, generations of Eastern European Jewish cooks recast them in infinite incarnations. They reappeared as chremslach (crispy fried balls) or mixed with golden onions as savory fillings for knishes, blintzes, and kreplach.
My kreplach, with a voluptuous stuffing of buttery potatoes and burnished onions, fall somewhere between boiled and fried—prepared, in other words, like Chinese pot sticker dumplings. They make a sensational appetizer, brunch treat, or dairy side dish.
© 2000 Jayne Cohen. All rights reserved.