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Published 1999
In Georgia, chicken rivals beef for year-round popularity. The Georgians either slaughter the birds themselves or buy them at the farmers’ market, from young poussins to boiling hens to cocks. One of the best-loved ways to prepare young chicken is to bone it partially and flatten it, then fry it under a heavy weight. This is the famous chicken tabaka, which has become such a standard of Russian restaurant cuisine that you’re as likely to eat it in Moscow as in Tbilisi. The name comes