6–9as part of a multicourse meal .
I first saw these mysterious parcels of chicken at a dinner given by some arty young Chinese friends. Everyone reached right in with their chopsticks to deftly unwrap the paper and exclaim over the tender, aromatic treat inside. Everyone, that is, except me! I was then a vegetarian, and while I was stupid not to abandon my principles on the spot and grab some of that chicken, the smell and look of it were enough to urge me to become a born-again carnivore.