This is one of my cold-weather favorites—a cozy, northern-style potful of sparerib nuggets, garlic, and Chinese black beans, stewed for hours until the meat falls from the bones and the sauce turns rich and ambrosial. It is a very simple dish with an earthy character I find immensely appealing. You may add the optional chili flakes and scallion rings for a central Chinese touch, or include some chunky vegetables—½ pound fresh broccoli flowerets, or ½ pound of