Orchid’s Tangy Cool Noodles

This is the quintessential Chinese cold noodle dish, a tangy northern-style blend of sweet, tart, and spicy tastes that has an astonishing popularity. It was the first Chinese dish I ever made, at a time when I had one tin pot in which to boil and store the noodles, and nothing big enough to toss them in but the kitchen sink.

• For economy, portability, and adaptability to any number of people or settings, “Orchid’s” cannot be surpassed. Make them in advan