Pot-Browned Noodles

Called “two-sides-brown” in Chinese, this is just about my favorite style of Chinese noodle dish—an inch-thick noodle “pillow,” crunchy and brown on the outside and soft within, topped by a savory, saucy stir-fry of meat and vegetables. The texture appeals to me mightily, as does the cooking method. I relish the dramatic moment when one tosses the noodle pillow up in the air to flip it over, hoping that eternal split-second that it will land back neatly in the pan! (If your taste runs to gr