Brandade de Morue

This creamy combination of salt cod, garlic, and potatoes—a cherished tidbit in Mediterranean households for generations—was a revelation the first time we tasted it. It sounds simple, but it’s actually a bit tricky to make. If you cook the salt cod too long it will become dry, and no matter how much cream and olive oil you add, you won’t get the classic smooth texture that makes this such a magnificent dish. (Do look for thick white salt cod, with its skin; don’t buy fish that is yellowing