This zesty main-dish soup is a cousin of the Mediterranean fisherman’s cioppino and an even more distant relative of the great French bouillabaisse. You can vary the shellfish used—lobster, Dungeness crab, squid, and octopus will all work nicely—but do not try to find a substitute for the Zinfandel.

Start with a slice of pâté, follow with a good green salad, and serve plenty of crusty bread for mopping up the juices.