Upping the Ante

On the one hand, I like to think that I can make absolutely anything better than the store-bought version. On the other hand, I tried repeatedly for months to make good coffee kombucha, and it was mad disgusting every time. I now leave that to the experts, who manage to coax a lightness and freshness out of the drink that I simply could not. Here, we pair this delightful beverage with Pedro Ximénez, a Spanish wine that is considered to be—but does not taste the same as—sherry. It’s more syr