Bigoli are a specialty of the Veneto. Their shape is like thick spaghetti, but unlike spaghetti, bigoli are traditionally made by hand with a combination of soft and whole-wheat flour and water. The dough is pushed through small holes using a hand-cranked press. It is sometimes possible to find bigoli in specialty stores, but spaghetti are a perfectly good substitute. Bigoli and this anchovy-and-onion sauce is a classic pairing. Don’t be alarmed by the amount of anchovies. The onion softens