For me, this is the archetypal French bistro dish, yet it is seldom found in the UK and, if it is, it can often be disappointing. There’s no big secret, just buy good-quality beef and cook it briefly. It’s never going to be as tender as fillet, but the flavour is knock-out. What’s more, it’s cheap. However, you do need a damn good gratin dauphinoise to accompany it. Sautéed shredded spring or winter greens make a colourful addition too.