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By Tony Bilson
Published 1987
From the time of my earliest interest in French cooking, quenelles have fascinated me — long associated with the savage pike (marauder of fairytale frogs, the shark of the Loire) and with the magic of classic Lyonnaise cookery. The only difference between a quenelle and a mousseline is that quenelles are usually moulded with a spoon and then poached, freely floating in the poaching liquid. With mousselines, the mixture is packed into buttered moulds, usually darioles or a timbale, and then