Bubble and Squeak

I once lived with a man who could be stopped in midsentence of even the most savage row if I started making this dish. You may imagine I am something of an expert at it.

There are three things to remember:

  1. There is no substitute for lard or beef dripping – if you object, eat something else.
  2. You need a really heavy frying pan.
  3. The potatoes must be cold before you start.


  • 450 g/1 lb cold potatoes
  • 55 g/2 oz dripping or lard
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 225 g/8 oz cooked cabbage or sprouts, chopped
  • salt and freshly ground pepper


Finely chop the potatoes and crush slightly. In a frying pan melt half of the fat and lightly fry the onion. Mix in the potato and greens and season well with salt and pepper. Add more dripping or lard. Press the bubble into the hot fat and fry over a moderate heat until browned underneath – about 15 minutes. Turn the bubble over, add the last of the dripping or lard and fry until the other side is browned.