Horseradish Cream Sauce

Although almost everyone knows how good any horseradish cream sauce is, we often need to be reminded about classics. Serve the mellow-pungent mixture with smoked fish—salmon, bluefish, trout, sable, chub, whitefish—or plain grilled salmon or bluefish. Spoon over smoked chicken or turkey, as well, or blanched hot vegetables.

The mustard and Tabasco, by the way, point up the horseradish savor, rather than adding new tastes. But if you want to add new tastes, try finely chopped or grat