Woodsy shiitake respond well to meaty stocks and sauces. They may need longer cooking than other mushrooms, so plan accordingly. If wine doesn’t suit the meal, add a second installment of stock.
Cut shiitake stems in thin slivers and combine in a small saucepan with stock. Simmer, covered, until tender— about 10 minutes. Wipe caps with a damp cloth or brush with a soft paintbrush. Break into large bite-sized pieces, if necessary—or leave whole.
Heat butter in a large skillet; add shallots and stir for a moment. Add mushroom caps and sauté over moderate