This goes really well with duck, pork and chicken – the sweetness of the potatoes complements these meats. It’s also lovely with roast pumpkin and field mushrooms. For 4–6 people, peel and dice 2 sweet potatoes and put in a pot of cold water with ½ sliced red chilli (with the seeds), a thumb of peeled and thinly sliced ginger and 2 teaspoons fine salt. Bring to the boil, then simmer with the lid on until cooked. Drain in a colander and tip into a food processor. Add 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds and 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, and blitz. The potato should become fine, but you want the chillies and ginger to retain some texture. Taste and season.