Braised Lamb Shanks with Celeriac and Leeks

Lamb shanks and celeriac are made for each other—in terms of both flavor and rugged appearance. No matter how you cook shanks, there is a touch of Neanderthal to the presentation, but the chewy, dense meat is luscious and sweet—particularly served on the bone. If neatness counts more than taste, you can remove the shanks: When the meat is very tender, slice it from the bone and cut into bite-size pieces, then return to the casserole to heat through. Otherwise, serve the bone-in shanks and l