Hotpot of Chinese Cabbage, Bean Threads, Tofu, and Shiitake

An Asian hybrid that illustrates the reticent charms of Chinese cabbage, which acts as lightener, binder, texturizer, and mild sweetener—yet is nearly invisible. Barely cook it to retain a slight crunch, or, if you prefer softer shreds, cook longer with more broth. Enjoy the contrasts of chewy shiitake, crepey cabbage, slippery noodles, and tender tofu for a main course or part of a vegetable meal. Improvise, adding soaked dried seaweed, fresh mushrooms, bean sprouts, diced red pepper, or l