Soup of Bean Thread Noodles, Garlic Chives, and Spiced Tofu

A soupy, slurpy hotpot for a wintry afternoon. If you’re in a hurry or prefer not to prepare the flavored tofu, purchase ready-made seasoned, pressed tofu, available in most natural food stores. Tawny and firm, it is labeled variously as hot Chinese, Thai, spiced, and so forth. If you bake your own, choose either of the blends of sweet aromatics called garam masala (an Indian mix) or 5-spice powder (a Chinese one). Like most thick, noodly soups, this is best tackled with spoon and chopstick